With spring just around the corner, it’s time to take inventory of home improvement projects you’d like to get done in the months to come. Winter weather can be tough on homes and outdoor spaces often need a little sprucing up before the spring time entertaining season arrives. Continue reading →
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Now that all the prep work is done, we can get started on the installation of new stair treads and railings. This part of the project, does take some time, but like we said before, it’s well worth it and you’re already half way there! Fore more information on this project visit DIY Network.
Step 1: Cut the Treads
Each tread will need to be slightly different in size. Measure each tread and cut it to size then install it using 2-1/4″ trim screws.
Step 2: Install the Treads
Start at the bottom and work your way up the steps so that you can add extra screws into treads from the back of the riser above it. Space the holes on the treads evenly since the wood filler will be visible after the steps are finished.
Step 3: Brace the Top Tread
Add a 2×4 brace between the stringers at the top step, which will give extra support for the final tread.
Step 4: Fill Screw Holes
Fill in all of the screw holes left in the treads with FAMOWOOD Wood Filler.
Step 5: Install the Hardwood Landing
Staple down 15-lb. roofing felt to the area. Install the nosing border (image 1) that’s cut at a 45-degree angle by pre-drilling the wood, and attach with 2-1/4″ trim screws. Since the nosing has a groove facing out, insert a spline (image 2) in order to create a tongue for the wood flooring to connect to. Use a rubber mallet and protective block to tap the hardwood planks into position, and then secure it in place using a pneumatic floor nailer. Stagger the planks as you work across the landing. The wall may prevent the use of the floor nailer on the last few rows, so use a regular nail gun with finishing nails in the edge of the boards. Rip cut floor boards for the last row and nail in place. Finish the landing’s new hardwood floor by filling the holes with FAMOWOOD Wood Filler.
Step 6: Install the Half-Newel Post
Pre-drill holes in the post and holes for toggle bolts in the wall. Insert screws for toggle bolts and attach toggles on the other side. Insert the toggles into the wall and tighten the screws
Step 7: Install the Newel Posts
Notch the newel post’s bottom to fit snugly around the step and secure it with lag bolts. Attach the bottom newel post goes in the same way.
Step 8: Cut Railing to Length
To mark the stair railing, hold it in place, resting along the stairs, and mark it for the angled cut.
Step 9: Install Balusters
Pre-drill the landing and treads for the balusters, using a special stair bit that drills the hole and then creates a thread to accept the baluster bolts. To prepare the balusters, drill out the center and insert the baluster bolts in the bottom. Screw the balusters into the floor.
Step 10: Attach the Railing
Attach the rail fasteners into the newel posts. Loosen the newel post and set the railing in place first by guiding it onto the rail fastener, and then by inserting the balusters into the holes in the railing. The angled portion of the railing may require removing the bottom newel post. Lining up all the balusters and holding the railing in place goes much easier with two people. Re-attach the newel post and tighten up the rail fastener.
Step 11: Install Moldings
To complete the project, install the new base moldings all around the stairs and landing.
A staircase is not only a functional part of a home, but can also be a focal point. So, it’s important to make sure the staircase is looking it’s best and safe for all ages. This DIY project from DIY Network takes a bit more time than just a few hours, but if you’re looking to update a staircase it’s well worth the time.
In this post, we’ll go through the preparation steps. Be sure to check back for a follow up post on installation.
- stair treads
- wood flooring
- FAMOWOOD Dura-Tuff Clear Coat polyurethane
- finish nails
- skirt boards
- newel posts
- landing tread
- speed square
- EcoGlue Premium Wood
- utility knife
- circular saw
- miter saw
- drill bits
- tape measure
- framing square
- flat pry bar
- brad nailer
- nail gun
Step 1: Avoid Damage
Take everything off the walls nearby to make sure you don’t break anything during the demolition.
Step 2: Remove the Railing
The posts and railings need to come off first so remove the wood plugs hiding the screws. Find and remove the screws under the railing going into the post. The first newel post comes off, and the balusters up to the next post come out easily. Remove the balusters and railing to the next post. Unscrew posts from the railing. Sometimes screw heads can break off. If that is the case, carefully use a reciprocating saw to cut through pieces to take them out. Typically railings that end in a wall are secured with a lag bolt. Remove the lag bolt and the rest of the railing.
Step 3: Remove the Carpet
Pull up the carpet from the steps and landing with pliers to get a good grip. If necessary cut the carpet with a utility knife. Remove the tackless strips. Remove the frame that the carpet attaches to, along the side of the steps.
Step 4: Remove Treads and Risers
Slip the pry bar under the top tread and pull it up. Note that removing treads and risers is hard work because not only are they nailed down, but they’re glued down as well. Some of the risers will come off with the treads. Cutting through the middle of the treads can help when prying them out. Keep the damage to the drywall along the stairs to a minimum.
Step 5: Stain the New Treads and Railing
Sand the treads, railing and newel posts with 220-grit sandpaper, making sure to sand with the grain. Wipe clean with a tack cloth and stain.
Step 6: Finish the Risers, Balusters and Skirt Boards
Sand and paint the new risers, balusters and skirt boards. Painting many of these pieces before they are installed is much easier than waiting until they are installed.
Step 7: Finish the New Treads and Railing
When the stained parts have dried, apply a coat of FAMOWOOD Dura-Tuff Clear Coat polyurethane on them. Use a quality brush, and always follow the grain. Be sure to stir the polyurethane with a stick. Never shake the can because it creates bubbles that will be brushed on to the wood ruining the finish.
Step 8: Adjust Stringers
To get proper measurements for the skirt boards, you’ll need to clean up the stringers first. Cut away the overhang of the landing with a circular saw and hand saw, and remove any leftover frame pieces with the reciprocating saw. Trim up the drywall edges and remove any dried glue. If the new treads are a different thickness than the ones removed adjust for the difference on the stringer. Measure the distance from the floor to the landing and divide by the number of steps. This results in how tall the risers need to be. For this particular project, the stringer treads need to be shimmed 1-1/4″.
Step 9: Mark the Location of the Skirt Boards
To mark for the skirt boards, hold a level across the new tread shims and use a framing square to mark the width of the skirt board. Make sure the square is flush with the level on one leg so it is measuring at a 90-degree angle from the line along the stairs. Draw a line where the skirt board will go. And mark for the one under the landing. On the wall side of the stairs, mark a line on the wall parallel with the steps. Then using a speed square, calculate the height of the skirt board.
Step 10: Cut the Skirt Boards
With the outside skirt board temporarily held in place with a couple of screws, mark the rise and run on the inside face of the skirt board. Mark the inside skirt board with the measurements from step 9. Take the boards outside and cut out as much as possible with a circular saw, then finish the cuts in the corners using a jig saw. The outside skirt board cuts for the risers are made on a 45-degree angle, which allows the risers to have a professional look. Make all the 45 degree cuts first then go back and cut the 90 degree cuts for the treads. All cuts for the inside skirt board are at a 90-degree angle to the surface of the skirt board.
Step 11: Install the Skirt Boards
Set the inside skirt board in place, making sure it goes behind the carpet at the floor. Attach it in place with 2″ finishing nails into the studs in the wall. Line up the outside skirt board and nail it to the stringer. Use a temporary riser with a 45-degree angle cut on the end as a guide. Use it to make sure the finished risers will line up. Add the skirt board under the landing.
Step 12: Cut and Install Risers
Measure the risers from the wall to the outside edge of the skirt board, and then cut them to length, mitering the end at a 45-degree angle. This will match up to the angle cut on the skirt board. Add EcoGlue Premium Wood to the joint and make sure it’s flush. Then nail the 45-degree joint with a brad nailer. Swap over to a nail gun and secure the face of the riser to the stringers with eight penny finish nails. Do each riser like before working down the stringers. When they’re all on, fill in the nail holes with vinyl spackle.
Stay tuned for part two. In the meantime, we found some additional resources that might come in handy:
FAMOWOOD GLAZE COAT High Gloss Epoxy is a two-part epoxy pour-on coating. It provides the equivalent protection and shine of 60 coats of varnish with just one application. It’s tough, but designed to be flexible to avoid shattering on impact and creates a beautiful aesthetic for interior finishes.
A new restaurant in Eugene, Ore. recently used GLAZE COAT on tabletops and counters. GLAZE COAT protects these surfaces in the restaurant from scratches and dings, while adding a beautiful shine.
Photos courtesy of Mike Dean Photography.
Custom picture or art framing can be awfully expensive. Wooden frames are elegant, but the joints expand and contract a good deal just from the temperature fluxuation in your house. And that can create loose joints.
If you have a frame that’s coming apart at the seams, a quick repair using Amazing GOOP Wood & Furniture will have it back together in no time.
After a recent move, I found that one of the corners of the wooden frame for a large Cheri Blum print was a bit loose. The print is probably 30” x 40” and with the frame it measures closer to 40” x 50”. The repair is easy enough to make. Here are the instructions:
Carefully remove the paper backing and determine how the frame is held together: glue, brads connecting the corners or a spline joint. Most frames are held together with glue and one brad.
Gently separate the corners. Old glue can be chipped away or warmed slightly so it can be pulled apart. A joint with two brads may require you to cut through them using a small saw and a spline joint may require a screwdriver to loosen.
Be gentle! It’s crucial that you don’t cut any wood away from the frame. Even a seemingly minute adjustment can result in an ill-fit when put back together. Don’t bend the spline – you only want to remove one side of it for repair. Final don’t – don’t leave tool marks on the frame.
Clean the corner you’re repairing. Pry away and remove the nails and any remaining dried glue. Fill the old nail holes on the outside of the frame with Famowood, and allow it to harden.
Put the frame corner back together. Lay the frame flat on the corner of a table to line up the sides. You can also use a T-Square to ensure you have a sharp right angle. A suggestion: put a “cushion” of thin cardboard or something between clamp and wood so you don’t leave marks on the frame.
Clamp one side of the frame to the table. Apply Amazing GOOP Wood and Furniture to the loose side of the frame. Replace the spline if necessary. Allow the glue to partially cure – between 2 and 10 minutes – before joining the two pieces. Remove any extra adhesive immediately.
Position the two corners until the edges are smooth and consistent. Use your second clamp for the remaining side of the frame to hold the corner tightly. Wait about 30 minutes.
Hammer two finishing nails into the corner – one from each side. Countersink the nails into the wood and fill with Famowood in a matching color. Allow the adhesive to fully cure for at least 24 hours before replacing the picture and hanging up.
The Bottom Line:
Cost for supplies is about $30 if you have to buy everything
Cost of custom framing a 30” x 40” print: estimates range between $300 and $500 for basic framing.
By doing this repair yourself, you’d save at least $250!