As children grow older, not only do they outgrow their clothes, but they also outgrow their bedroom spaces. If you have a teen or a tween in the house, a loft bed can be the perfect solution to providing additional space in a small bedroom. Continue reading →
All posts tagged EcoGlue Premium Wood
It’s spring and it’s the perfect time of year to get ready for outdoor DIY projects. If you plan on doing any planting or gardening but you’re not ready to venture into a soggy backyard just yet, we recommend projects that can be completed in the garage and moved outside when the sun appears.
A spring planter box is the perfect project for creating indoors in preparation for more pleasant weather to come. The simplicity of a planter box makes it utilitarian for growing flowers, herbs or vegetables and portable enough to be moved around.
You can find tutorials on the major DIY sites. Think about where you want to show off your plants and draw a diagram for how the box will fit in that space.
- DIYNetwork: How to Build a Planter Box
- Curbly: Make a Super Simple Spring Planter
- HGTV: Planter Box Project (Video)
- Sunset: Raised-box Herb Garden
If your plans call for wood glue, try Amazing EcoGlue Premium Wood.
After constructing your planter box, a little planning will help ensure that your plants thrive in their new home. It’s best to choose plants that do not grow over a foot high and do well with restricted roots.
Observe the sunlight where you want to place your boxes and note how m uch sun exposure those spots receive. Depending on the particular condition, choose plants that grow best in sunlight or shade. In the spring, choose plants that do not mind cooler temperatures.
To learn more about what to put in your planter box and how to care for plants in containers, visit the following links:
If you’ve ever checked out the curb on trash day, you have probably noticed how common it is to see broken wooden chairs awaiting their one-way trip to the local landfill. Too often, wooden chairs are thrown out when all they need is a quick fix. If you have a wooden chair with a broken leg, don’t replace it– learn how to repair it with EcoGlue Premium Wood Adhesive.
Using chairs frequently can cause legs to become loose. It also happens over time because as wood ages and dries out, it shrinks. As a result, the joints between the parts of a chair can sometimes come loose. This problem can be repaired by forcing glue into the joints. It’s important to choose a high-performance wood glue such as EcoGlue Premium Wood adhesive that will form a strong bond and maintain flex strength, heat resistance and adhesive strength over time. Instead of replacing your favorite chair, follow these steps to repair a chair with loose legs:
- Examine joints to find any loose ones. Repair all joints at the same time.
- Separate each joint as much as possible to make it easily accessible.
- Clean off old glue from the ends of the chair legs and from the inside of the holes. (Use a scraper, chisel or knife if necessary.) Make sure to remove all old glue, because the new glue will not stick to it.
- Apply EcoGlue Premium Wood adhesive to both the tenon (the end of the leg or stretcher) and to the inside of the hole.
- Reassemble the parts using a rubber mallet or clamp if necessary.
- Hold the joint together, and drill a hole from the underside, slightly smaller in diameter than your wood screw at an angle to the joint.
- Drive in a screw longer than the diameter of the tenon part you are repairing. The screw will hold the joint until EcoGlue Premium Wood glue dries (initial bond forms in 30 minutes, 100% strength is reached in 24 hours) and prevent it from becoming loose again.
Check out this post from TLC for instructions to repair broken back rails, spindles, slats and other structural parts.
Built-in book cases are an excellent addition to any living room. They provide extra storage, as well as give your home a custom, cozy look. We particularly like this Built-in Bookcase Tutorial from Maillardville Manor because it’s utilizes bookcases that are already constructed, making this an easy DIY project. With recessed sides and a center shelf that pops out, this bookcase add a unique touch to the home.
What you’ll need:
- 2 full width billy bookcases
- 3 half-width bookcases
- MDF board
- EcoGlue Premium Wood Adhesive
For complete instructions and diagrams, visit Maillardville Manor. To see more tutorials and tips for building and organizing bookshelves, check out the following links:
Photo credit: Maillardville Manor
Here are our favorite craft and DIY links this week, with a special focus on Super Bowl crafts & entertaining. Be sure to follow us @amazinggoop for daily updates on crafts, DIY projects and more! Have a great weekend!
Top off your Super Bowl decor with two creative projects from Dollar Store Crafts. First, create an astroturf mini football field for the buffet table. Next, if you have sewing skills, try making a football garland.
Will kids be attending your Super Bowl party? Crafts with Kendra shows you how to let them in on the fun by creating tiny finger puppets shaped like giant foam fingers found at the football stadium.
Have an old side table gathering dust in storage? Give it a makeover by tiling the top with these instructions.
Photo credit: Hostess with the Mostess
A staircase is not only a functional part of a home, but can also be a focal point. So, it’s important to make sure the staircase is looking it’s best and safe for all ages. This DIY project from DIY Network takes a bit more time than just a few hours, but if you’re looking to update a staircase it’s well worth the time.
In this post, we’ll go through the preparation steps. Be sure to check back for a follow up post on installation.
- stair treads
- wood flooring
- FAMOWOOD Dura-Tuff Clear Coat polyurethane
- finish nails
- skirt boards
- newel posts
- landing tread
- speed square
- EcoGlue Premium Wood
- utility knife
- circular saw
- miter saw
- drill bits
- tape measure
- framing square
- flat pry bar
- brad nailer
- nail gun
Step 1: Avoid Damage
Take everything off the walls nearby to make sure you don’t break anything during the demolition.
Step 2: Remove the Railing
The posts and railings need to come off first so remove the wood plugs hiding the screws. Find and remove the screws under the railing going into the post. The first newel post comes off, and the balusters up to the next post come out easily. Remove the balusters and railing to the next post. Unscrew posts from the railing. Sometimes screw heads can break off. If that is the case, carefully use a reciprocating saw to cut through pieces to take them out. Typically railings that end in a wall are secured with a lag bolt. Remove the lag bolt and the rest of the railing.
Step 3: Remove the Carpet
Pull up the carpet from the steps and landing with pliers to get a good grip. If necessary cut the carpet with a utility knife. Remove the tackless strips. Remove the frame that the carpet attaches to, along the side of the steps.
Step 4: Remove Treads and Risers
Slip the pry bar under the top tread and pull it up. Note that removing treads and risers is hard work because not only are they nailed down, but they’re glued down as well. Some of the risers will come off with the treads. Cutting through the middle of the treads can help when prying them out. Keep the damage to the drywall along the stairs to a minimum.
Step 5: Stain the New Treads and Railing
Sand the treads, railing and newel posts with 220-grit sandpaper, making sure to sand with the grain. Wipe clean with a tack cloth and stain.
Step 6: Finish the Risers, Balusters and Skirt Boards
Sand and paint the new risers, balusters and skirt boards. Painting many of these pieces before they are installed is much easier than waiting until they are installed.
Step 7: Finish the New Treads and Railing
When the stained parts have dried, apply a coat of FAMOWOOD Dura-Tuff Clear Coat polyurethane on them. Use a quality brush, and always follow the grain. Be sure to stir the polyurethane with a stick. Never shake the can because it creates bubbles that will be brushed on to the wood ruining the finish.
Step 8: Adjust Stringers
To get proper measurements for the skirt boards, you’ll need to clean up the stringers first. Cut away the overhang of the landing with a circular saw and hand saw, and remove any leftover frame pieces with the reciprocating saw. Trim up the drywall edges and remove any dried glue. If the new treads are a different thickness than the ones removed adjust for the difference on the stringer. Measure the distance from the floor to the landing and divide by the number of steps. This results in how tall the risers need to be. For this particular project, the stringer treads need to be shimmed 1-1/4″.
Step 9: Mark the Location of the Skirt Boards
To mark for the skirt boards, hold a level across the new tread shims and use a framing square to mark the width of the skirt board. Make sure the square is flush with the level on one leg so it is measuring at a 90-degree angle from the line along the stairs. Draw a line where the skirt board will go. And mark for the one under the landing. On the wall side of the stairs, mark a line on the wall parallel with the steps. Then using a speed square, calculate the height of the skirt board.
Step 10: Cut the Skirt Boards
With the outside skirt board temporarily held in place with a couple of screws, mark the rise and run on the inside face of the skirt board. Mark the inside skirt board with the measurements from step 9. Take the boards outside and cut out as much as possible with a circular saw, then finish the cuts in the corners using a jig saw. The outside skirt board cuts for the risers are made on a 45-degree angle, which allows the risers to have a professional look. Make all the 45 degree cuts first then go back and cut the 90 degree cuts for the treads. All cuts for the inside skirt board are at a 90-degree angle to the surface of the skirt board.
Step 11: Install the Skirt Boards
Set the inside skirt board in place, making sure it goes behind the carpet at the floor. Attach it in place with 2″ finishing nails into the studs in the wall. Line up the outside skirt board and nail it to the stringer. Use a temporary riser with a 45-degree angle cut on the end as a guide. Use it to make sure the finished risers will line up. Add the skirt board under the landing.
Step 12: Cut and Install Risers
Measure the risers from the wall to the outside edge of the skirt board, and then cut them to length, mitering the end at a 45-degree angle. This will match up to the angle cut on the skirt board. Add EcoGlue Premium Wood to the joint and make sure it’s flush. Then nail the 45-degree joint with a brad nailer. Swap over to a nail gun and secure the face of the riser to the stringers with eight penny finish nails. Do each riser like before working down the stringers. When they’re all on, fill in the nail holes with vinyl spackle.
Stay tuned for part two. In the meantime, we found some additional resources that might come in handy: