All posts in DIY

Warm Up With a Fireplace Mantle

by kendrahandke on November 11, 2010 in DIY with No comments
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It’s hard to believe that the holidays are almost here, but it’s true and we’ve got DIY projects and decorations on the mind!  Best known for displaying our favorite festive holiday decorations and hanging stockings, a fireplace mantle is often the focal point of a room.   Especially as everyone cozies up next to the fire.   Surprisingly, creating you’re own fireplace mantle is easier than you may think.  See below!

You already have mantle, but not sure how to decorate for the holidays? Check out the photos following the tutorial for inspiration and ideas.

HGTV shows us how to build a fireplace mantle with Kirei board, an eco-friendly material.

Materials & Tools:

two 1-1/8 inch kirei board top and bottom pieces, 70 by 9-inches
two 1-1/8 inch kirei board side pieces, 4 by 9-inches
1-1/8 inch kirei board front piece, 70 by 4-inches
Eco Glue Premium Wood Adhesive
 painter’s tape
screws (3-inch and 4-inch)
2-inch cleat at 67-3/4 by 1-3/4 inches
table saw
miter saw
drill

Steps:

1. Start by ripping down and cutting the kirei board to the desired dimensions: Top and bottom pieces at 70-inches long by 9-inches, two matching sides at 4 by 9-inches and the front at 70 by 40inches. The final dimensions of the mantel will be 70 by 4 by 9-inches deep.

2. Next, make 45-degree miter cuts along all four edges of the front piece. The cut 45-degree angles along one side of the kirei and at each end for the top and bottom pieces. The side that will not have a miter cut is the side that will attach to the wall. Finally, miter the two end pieces on three sides, leaving the side facing the wall straight.

3. Lay out the pieces with the mitered sides facing down. Stagger them with the front piece in the center and the top and bottom pieces on the side, with the flat edges facing out. Apply painter’s tape along the seams where each piece meets. This will assure the pieces do not shift. When using tape, make sure to use a type that is compatible with the surface, otherwise it may damage the material.

4. Take more tape and tape across the boards, making sure the tape is tight. This will hold the mantle tightly together when the pieces are folded.

5. Turn the piece over so the mitered sides are facing up. Generously apply Eco Glue Premium Wood Adhesive into the crevasses of each miter cut.

6. Carefully fold the two end pieces upward, making sure they don’t shift. Then turn over so the front piece of the mantle is facing up. Make sure the tape is nice and tight.

7. Add glue to the mitered cuts of the sidepieces and then apply at each end. Remember to place the flat end of the piece towards the back. Add tape over the seams, trying to make them as nice and square as possible. Then go back and place tape across the end pieces holding everything nice and tight.

8. Once the mantle is all taped up, let it dry overnight. Once dry you can remove the tape and apply a water-based stain to bring out the beauty of the kirei.

9. Cut a cleat that will fit into the back of the mantle. To figure out the measurement for the cleat, simply subtract the thickness of the wood from the measurement of the mantle, in this case 67-3/4 by 1-3/4 inches. Taper the ends of the cleat so that the mantle will slide on more smoothly.

10. Locate the studs in the wall and attach the cleat with 4-inch screws above the fireplace. Make sure to leave enough space between the bottom of the cleat and the fireplace to fit the bottom of the mantle.

11. Slide the mantle onto the cleat and secure with 3-inch screws on the top and bottom.

Use these examples to inspire your own holiday mantle!


Build a Custom Kitchen Island

by kendrahandke on October 4, 2010 in DIY, Woodworking with No comments
kitchen-island-big 2

A kitchen island is an excellent addition to any kitchen.  It provides extra storage, an additional surface for preparing food and can be customized to fit your needs.  We particularly like this DIY kitchen island from Popular Mechanics because it has a counter-height work-station with drawers, a pullout waste bin, a storage shelf and a drop-leaf top.  And, because the island isn’t nailed down-you can relocate it to suit the occasion, and take it with you if you move.

Keep in mind that Eco Glue Premium Wood Adhesive can be used not only when a plan calls for adhesive, but also in place of nails or other fasteners for a more streamlined look.

Cutting Plate Slots

First, build up leg blanks by gluing together full 1 x 3-in. poplar boards with Eco Glue Premium Wood Adhesive. While the glue is drying, make the face-frame parts and the stretchers. Cut double plate slots 1/4 in. apart in the 1-in. stock, using a 1/4-in. spacer under the plate joiner to register the second slots. Then cut single plate slots in the 3/4-in. plywood panel without using a spacer. Transfer the plate locations to the legs. Use a 3/4-in. spacer followed by stacked 3/4- and 1/4-in. spacers to register the double slots that match the face-frame slots.

Case Assembly

Assemble the back face frame and front face frame with glue and plates, double-check that the assemblies are square, and leave them clamped for at least an hour. Join the stretchers to the face frames with glue and plates. Note that the rear stretcher fits inside the face frame, while the front stretcher simply joins the top end of the mullion. Be especially careful with this joint. Until the side/leg assemblies are in place, this stretcher joint can break. When the glue has dried, join both face frames to the partition panel. Drive a screw through each stretcher and into the partition top edge to strengthen the joints, and fit the back panel. At this point, it’s time to glue the two leg assemblies to the case, one at a time.

With most of the island assembled, glue and screw the support strips for the floor of the waste-bin compartment, and glue and nail the floor in place. Set the nails and fill the holes with FAMOWOOD Wood Filler. Make the open shelf by fastening poplar boards to the lower rails, notching the first and last pieces to fit around the legs and frame pieces. Screw the boards in place through counterbored screwholes and then plug the holes. A shim ensures uniform spacing.

Assemble the main top from 5-in.-wide cherry boards. Strictly speaking, you don’t have to use plate joints in the assembly, but we did because they help in alignment. They’ll also add a little extra strength if some of the joints are less than perfect. Note that the drop leaf has end boards that help keep the assembly flat. Lay out the drop-leaf hinge mortises and remove most of the waste with a router-then finish up with a chisel and install the hinges. Attach the top with screws that pass through elongated holes in the stretchers. The holes allow the top to move seasonally.

Drawer and Waste Bin

The drawers are made with dadoes, grooves and rabbets, which produce strong, locking joints. We made these cuts on a table saw with a dado blade, but a router table will work, too. Assemble the drawer boxes with nails and glue. Install spacers and blocking around the partition to support the drawer slides. Fit the drawer faces after the drawer boxes are in place so you can adjust the faces for a uniform gap all around. Screw the waste-bin hardware to the floor of its compartment. Then, edge the plywood waste-bin door with poplar and install the door.

Finishing

For a great paint finish on the base and drawer fronts, sand with 120-, 150- and 220-grit paper, and apply a latex primer. Lightly sand the primer with 220-grit paper, remove all the dust, then apply two coats of a quality latex paint. We finished the drawer boxes and top pieces with three coats of alkyd varnish, lightly sanding between coats. When the final coat is dry, rub the surface with 4/0 steel wool.

Here are some other great DIY kitchen island instructionals:

DIY Network – How to Build a Custom Kitchen Island

Do It Yourself – Building a Kitchen Island in Four Easy Steps

HGTV – How To: Build a Kitchen Island with Cabinets

Enjoy Candle Light With a Standing Wood Candelabra

by kendrahandke on September 26, 2010 in DIY, mark montano, Woodworking with No comments
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Every now and then it’s nice to choose a project that can be completed in just a few hours.  That’s why we love this standing wood candelabra from Mark Montano.  With just a few supplies, you can have your own candelabra in no time!  And, be sure to pick up Mark’s newest book, Big Ass Book of Crafts for more great projects like this!

***

I made this for a friend when she got married and they LOVE it.  It was easy to make and I enjoyed the process very much.  Everything you need to make it is at your local hardware store.  It’s a project ANYONE can do.  I hope you enjoy it!

YOU’LL NEED:

2 decorative scroll wooden shelf brackets 8 1/2 inches long (Home Depot or Lowe’s)

4 plain wooden shelf brackets

One 5 foot long piece of 2×2 pine

EcoGlue Premium Wood Glue

Krylon Spray Paint in a color you like

Masking tape

5 glass votive holders

Household GOOP

HERE’S HOW:

Working on a large flat surface, glue the wooden scroll brackets flush with one end of the 2×2.

Glue 2 of the plain wooden flush with the other end of the 2×2.

While that is drying, glue a third plain wooden bracket on the 2×2. This will start to create the base of the candelabra.

After this dries (give it a couple of hours) flip your candelabra over with the 3rd plain bracket hanging over the edge of your work surface and glue on the 4th plain bracket to the bottom of the 2×2.

When this is dry, paint with your spray paint.

Finally, glue on the 5 glass votives with the Household GOOP or E-6000.

Save Money with Household Repairs and Improvements

by kendrahandke on September 9, 2010 in DIY, Home Improvement, repair with No comments
house28

If you’re like us, you’re always planning or thinking about  your next DIY project.  As we say goodbye to summer and welcome fall, consider these do-it-yourself household repair and home improvement projects that can save you time and money.

Reattach loose tile
If you have tile flooring, you may notice over time that some of the tiles getting loose. This could be because the adhesive securing it to the floor is no longer sticky and all you need to do is use a little heat to make the adhesive tacky again to reattach the tile.

Try this tip from TLC: grab a sheet of aluminum foil and an iron.  Place a sheet of aluminum foil over the tile to protect it from the direct heat. Turn your iron to high and place it directly on the foil over the tile. Keep the iron on the foil and tile long enough for the adhesive to melt and reattach to the floor. If it’s a small tile, it should take about five minutes; a larger tile might take 10. Finally, place a heavy object, such as a bathroom scale, on the tile until the adhesive dries again.

HVAC: Install a Programmable Thermostat
DIY Network suggests improving your home’s comfort and efficiency with a unit that allows multiple settings.  A programmable thermostat offers more control options and saves on home heating and cooling expenses. It allows you to set different temperatures for different times of the day, and even different times on different days.

Silence a Squeaky Floor
Living in an older home may mean that you have squeaky floorboards.  This is generally caused by slightly shifted floorboards that rub against one another and cause the squeak.   To get started, be sure to locate all the squeaking planks.  Then, apply a small amount of Amazing GOOP Craft adhesive in between them, making sure to wipe excess adhesive away and let it dry overnight.

Patch a Holey Screen
You can fix small holes in your screens instead of spending hundreds on replacing them.  It’s easy: just apply a small spot of E-6000 in the hole to seal it right up.

Basement Build Out
Consider this a maximum value big ticket upgrade that will not only add extra square footage, but will pay you back when it comes time to sell.  Not sure where to start?  Check out  HGTV’s Front Door, which provides great advice and tips regardless of your budget.  If you’re just looking to remodel an unfinished basement, DIY Network shares easy how-to steps on installing drywall, bamboo paneling, subfloor panels and more.

Go Natural With A Branch Chandelier

by kendrahandke on August 31, 2010 in DIY with No comments
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Add a rustic touch to your kitchen, dining room or living room with a custom branch chandelier.  Perfect to transition your home from summer to fall!  For more inspiration and ideas on branch chandeliers visit CasaSugar.

Material & Tools

  • razor blade
  • branches
  • zip ties
  • Ul light bulbs
  • Ul electrical wire
  • EcoGlue Premium Wood Adhesive
  • safety glasses
  • pencil
  • Forstner bit
  • drill
  • hand saw

Step 1: Arrange & Secure Branches

Search your yard for branches or purchase them from a local crafts store. The number of branches you need depends on the size of chandelier you want.  Remove the greenery and pull off any loose bark,  then weave the branches together until you achieve the desired look. Secure your design with zip ties.

Tip:  If you are hanging the chandelier above a table, place the branches on the table when weaving so it will match the table.  This will also help ensure that the bottom is flat when hung.

Step 2: Electrical Wires

Choose a few thicker branches to hold the UL light bulbs and wires. Cut each branch down to size and, using a forsner bit, notch an opening in the top. Then slice a small opening down the length of each branch. Attach UL electrical wires to a UL-approved socket and place a socket in each opening, feeding the wire down through the branch. Screw a bulb in each socket.

Step 3: Bulbs

Fill openings with EcoGlue Premium Wood, place the UL electrical wires on top and secure with zip ties. Once the glue is dry, remove the zip ties. Finish your project by filling in any bare spots with more branches.

Home Improvement in the Kitchen: Laminate Countertops

by kendrahandke on August 17, 2010 in DIY, Home Improvement with No comments
Picture 7

It is the middle of August, but summer isn’t over yet and there’s still plenty of time to complete those home improvement projects you haven’t checked off your list.  If you’re kitchen needs a little facelift, consider updating the countertops with new laminate.  Laminate is affordable, easy to care for and available in a wide variety of colors, so it’s easy to find a design to match your lifestyle and taste.

If this is your first time tackling a project like this, we recommend asking a friend to help you.  You’ll appreciate the extra hand as well as the company as this can take several hours.

Materials & Tools:

  • Level
  • Clamps
  • Belt sander
  • Caulk gun
  • Rubber mallet
  • Shims
  • Saw horses
  • EcoGlue Premium Wood Adhesive
  • Safety glasses
  • Manufactured countertop
  • Drawing compass
  • Miter clamp kit
  • Silicone caulk
  • Carpenter pencil

Tips before getting started:

When you measure for your countertop, be sure to include the counter overhang, which is usually between 3/4″ – 1″ in front and on open ends.

The point where two counters meet in a corner must be square. Make a mark 3′  from the corner on one wall and 4′  from the corner on the other wall. If the distance between marks isn’t 5′, consider having a professional make and install a custom counter.

Make all measurements twice for accuracy.

Note: You can custom make your own countertop, or you can select a stock countertop from a home improvement center. Many color and pattern combinations are available.

Safety:

Shut off power at the breaker box for any electrical appliances under the countertop. Then shut off the water supply at the valves under the countertop.

Double-check to ensure your sawhorses are level and stable before placing the countertop on them.

Step 1: Set and Level the Countertop

  • Set and clamp the countertop in place.
  • Shim as needed to make it level.
  • Check for gaps between the backsplash and the wall. If the gaps are narrow, fill them in with caulk and proceed to step four. If the gaps are large, follow steps two and three below.

Step 2: Mark Backsplash with Compass

  • Set a drawing compass to the span of the largest gap between the backsplash and the wall.
  • Set the compass point next to the wall and the marker on the backsplash.
  • Pull the compass along the wall to mark what will need to be removed on the backsplash.

Step 3: Remove Countertop and Clamp to Sawhorses

  • Remove the countertop and clamp it in place on sawhorses.
  • Use a belt sander to sand the backsplash to the line drawn with the compass.
  • Place the countertop on the cabinet and ensure the backsplash is flush against the wall.

Step 4: Glue Edges Together

  • Where two pieces of the cabinet meet, glue them together with the glue from a miter-clamp kit. If the kit has no glue, apply a thin bead of silicone caulk to the edges of both pieces.
  • Apply EcoGlue Premium Wood Adhesive to the rest of the edges and press together.

Step 5: Tighten Miter Clamps

  • Make sure the entire surface is flush at the seam along the front edge of the counter.
  • Tighten the nearest miter clamp and wipe away any excess glue.
  • Stand behind the backsplash and push the countertop up and down as needed to make the seam flush along the back of the counter.
  • Tighten the miter clamp nearest the backsplash.

Step 6: Level the Countertop

  • If one side of the seam is higher than the other, protect the surface with a piece of wood and tap the countertop with a rubber mallet.
  • When the seam is level, tighten the remaining miter clamps.

Step 7: Fasten the Countertop to the Cabinet

Note: Check the length of every screw carefully before driving it into the countertop.

  • If the cabinet has a top surface, fasten the countertop by screwing up through the bottom of the cabinet top into the countertop. If the cabinets have no tops, screw through the front rail and any blocks built into the cabinet.
  • Seal the seam between the backsplash and the wall with silicone caulk that matches the color of the countertop.
  • Your countertop installation is complete!

Relax with an Outdoor Fire Pit

by kendrahandke on August 3, 2010 in DIY, Lawn & Garden, Outdoors with No comments
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Summer is one of our favorite times of the year.  Not only because it’s sunny and warm, but also because of all the outdoor projects we can get done.  And, while our backyards are a great place to work on projects they’re also a great place to relax.  That’s why we’re excited that the DIY Network has shared 8 easy-to-build outdoor fire pit designs to help you create a cozy backyard perfect for cool summer evenings.  Here are some of our favorites.

A concrete square constructed in place is capped off with sandstone tiles then filled with gravel, a large metal fire bowl and decorative river rocks.

Natural stone is stood on end to outline this sunken fire ring.

Concrete pavers normally used for retaining walls can easily be stacked and filled with sand to make a small fire ring.

This fireplace was made by stacking rectangle pavers in a staggered pattern one small section at a time, then each section was lined and mortared with two rows of fire bricks standing up on end.

For even more inspiration check out these amazing outdoor fireplaces and fire pits.

Video How-To’s: A DIY’ers Helping Hand

by kendrahandke on July 23, 2010 in DIY, Home Improvement with No comments
Photo courtesy of Bill Lim

Sometimes the easiest way to learn how to do a home improvement or DIY project is by watching it done by someone experienced.  For this reason, Mashable put together a great list of the best DIY and Home Improvement channels on YouTube, we think you’ll find quite helpful.

VideoJug offers a huge selection of instructional videos to help you, as they put it, get good at life.  The YouTube channel features a selection of their videos covering topics like how to stop squeaky hinges and how to tile a wall.  For even more videos you can visit the main site.

Ron Hazelton is the host of ‘Ron Hazelton’s House Calls’ and specializes in basic home improvement projects.  He demonstrates things like how to remove wallpaper, how to remove and replace tile grout and how to replace damaged molding.

Tim Carter is the host of Ask the Builder, DIY video tutorials that focus on projects to help you save money and time.  Carter offers general overviews of products and processes like roof moss and stump removal.

HomeAdditionPlus offers helpful video tutorials on DIY, home improvement and home remodeling tips and information. Host Mark Donavan’s quick and concise approach may be best for those looking for a project overview as opposed to an in-depth step by step instructional.

eHow Home offers advice on decor, soft furnishings, troubleshooting problems around the home, and cleaning tips.

Do It (All) Yourself With A Tiny House

by kendrahandke on July 8, 2010 in DIY with 1 Comment
tiny house blog

Tiny houses are popping up everywhere from the Northeast all the way across the country on the West Coast.  Whether you’re a DIY’er looking for your next project or wanting to downsize your current housing situation, a tiny home could be for you! Builders like Jay Shafer, Peter King and Derek Diedricksen are helping people design and build their very own tiny homes with weekend workshops, free house plans and more.

Tiny Yellow House

“I’m just a freelance, insane guy working out of his backyard building stuff for people when the need arises,” says Derek Diedricksen, 33, a tiny house enthusiast who lives outside of Boston.

In his web video series, Diedricksen documents the construction of his tiny homes in which he uses building materials for much of his construction.  One shack called the Gypsy Junker is just 7 feet by 4 feet and can sleep three people.

Learn more about Derek and Tiny Yellow House at his blog relaxshax.wordpress.com.

Vermont Tiny Houses

Peter King another builder in the tiny house movement lives in a geodesic dome in Vermont with several tiny houses on his property.

“I just like the sense of economy,” King explains. “The sense of: you can’t put a lot of stuff in there, so you have to be careful of what’s important. And another beauty of the tiny house is that you can put them almost anywhere. They are moveable at this scale. You can easily put them up on rollers and pull them around.”

King runs weekend workshops in which participants turn a pile of lumber on the ground into a tiny house.  Four students pay for the experience, and a fifth person pays for the wood and has a new house at the end of the weekend.  A 10×10 foot structure, constructed in a weekend, cost a total of only $6,000 or $7,000.

To sign up for one of King’s weekend workshops visit, vermonttinyhouses.com.

Tumbleweed Tiny House Company

Jay Shafer started Tumbleweed Tiny House Company in 1997 in Sebastopol, California.  “My decision to inhabit just 89 square feet arose from some concerns I had about the impact a larger house would have on the environment, and because I do not want to maintain a lot of unused or unusable space. My houses have met all of my domestic needs without demanding much in return,” says Jay.

Tumbleweed Tiny House Company offers workshops all over North America in places like Austin, Texas, Toronto, Canada, Boulder, Colorado and Portland, Oregon.  You can buy a homes ready made or purchase a kit to build it yourself.

Before you get started make sure you have a well organized and thought out plan including location and tools.  And remember when choosing an adhesive for such a small space, one that’s low VOC and water-based, such as EcoGlue, will ensure your tiny house air quality is good.

You can listen to NPR’s story, Do-It-Yourself Downsize: How To Build A Tiny House here.

How-To: A Lesson in DIY Comes to the UO

by kendrahandke on June 10, 2010 in DIY, General Information with No comments
Photo by Cherise Kaechele, ckaechel@gmail.com (48)

Despite the pouring rain, students at the University of Oregon got some DIY tips and took home free samples at a Springfield/Eugene Habitat for Humanity in the Erb Memorial Union Amphitheater last month.

The event; co-sponsored by Cafe Zenon, Bi-Mart, and the ReStore; was designed to educate the university community about how to make standard household repairs they might not know how to fix otherwise. This included things like sealing leaky sink faucets, tightening loose door handles, fixing unstable chairs and tables, and other household items that need repair from time to time.

The free event offered give-a-ways including cookies from local bakery Cafe Zenon, small, personal tool kits from Bi-Mart and a selection of our adhesives like FAMOWOOD Wood Filler and Amazing GOOP Household.

Representatives from the Springfield/Eugene Habitat for Humanity ReStore were present to instruct and teach students, faculty, staff, and community members about basic procedures to fix broken items in one’s home. Individuals were encouraged to stop by and learn how to become their own personal handyman or handywoman.

Images by Cherise Kaechele.

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